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Keeping
a horse inside a stall can be detrimental to his or her health
due to the high concentrations of ammonia, dust and molds present
in many barns. Respiratory infections and allergies, coughs, and
heaves are frequently seen. Other issues that occur when horses
are kept inside include nutritional deficiencies, arthritis, and
many behavioral problems. So, if you keep your horses inside a
barn, open the doors, let the air circulate, and best of all try
to find some turnout time.
There are many reasons for keeping horses inside during the
summer months, from preparing for a show to not having the
space to turn them out. During the winter months, the climate
in many states is such that people often keep horses in a
tightly closed barn. If you keep your horse inside most of
the time, you need to be aware of some serious health concerns.
Horses need vitamin D which is obtained from sunlight acting
on the skin. Horses that are kept totally inside could become
deficient in vitamin D, critical to calcium and vitamin A
metabolism. Good quality green hay and many supplements contain
vitamin D, but that is never as good as the real stuff obtained
outside in the sun.
Vitamin E is supplied best in green grass, and some in good
green hay. A horse that has no access to the fresh green stuff,
may need to be supplemented. Vitamin E has many important
uses in the body, including muscle, reproduction and immune
system function as well as is an important antioxidant. Natural
source vitamin E (d tocopherol) should be used if supplementation
is needed. You may need 1000 to 2000 IU per day if your horse
has some access to fresh green forage, and up to 5000 IU per
day if your horse has no access, especially in the very northern
parts of the country where hay is fed for many months.
The mental benefits horses gain from being outside can be
critical to our ability to have a safe ride. Horses were designed
to run and play – both for their mind and their physical
health. Horse that do not get out to play are consistently
stiffer and more arthritic than their pasture counterparts.
Inside horses need more tranquilizers, herbal relaxers and
prayer to keep them sane; the prayer is for our safety as
they get tense and try to buck or run away.
One of the more stressful things done to our horse’s
respiratory tract is to keep them in a barn with the doors
shut. A horse is designed to live outside – that is
why he grows a furry winter coat and has a very complex, unique
system of shunting blood around to keep his feet warm. When
we put our horse in a stall he/she cannot move freely and
keep his/her respiratory tract clear. Dust, and ammonia from
the urine irritate the respiratory tract. Horses are designed
to eat off the ground and the practice of feeding grain, water
and hay from buckets and mangers at chest height or higher
keeps the irritants in the lungs.
Horses spend a lot of time with their head on the ground,
even if they are fed from a manger. Ammonia is a very toxic
compound to lung tissue. Ten parts per million (ppm), the
level where you can just detect an ammonia smell, is already
toxic, and at 30 ppm your eyes will water. In one study, men
working a 40-hour week in 11 ppm of ammonia developed ulcers
in their lungs. Air circulation studies in English barns point
to increased ammonia and dust as significant factors in the
development of allergic lung disease such as heaves. Several
studies of pigs have shown that their lungs lost up to 2/3
of their capacity in six months of living with high levels
of ammonia. Ammonia levels are much higher in urine from horses
fed excessive amounts of protein; any feed with 12% protein
and above can increase the odor.
Most people do not realize that they have an ammonia problem,
because they do not get down to the horse’s level and
smell the ground, especially after a horse has spent 12 or
15 hours in the stall. If you walk into your barn in the morning
and can smell ammonia there is a severe problem, and in those
barns I see a much higher instance of respiratory disease.
However, many barns have an ammonia problem and the owner
does not know it, because the humans that inhabit the barn
have become accustomed to the smell. Ask a friend who has
no horses if they can smell ammonia in your barn after it
has been closed up all night. Believe their answer; theirs
will be the most objective opinion.
We keep barns closed in the winter for one reason –
our own personal comfort. In the summer, some barns have good
air circulation, while others have nice air flow down the
aisle, but the stalls have stagnant air. The ideal barn has
stalls open to the outside or big wide spacious aisles with
good air circulation, and partial doors, gates or stall guards
to allow air circulation at the most critical place –
the floor. However there are ways around the dilemma for most
barns if you do not have the luxury of the perfect barn.
1. Open the doors and windows in the winter as well
as the summer! Close them while you work for your
own comfort, then open them and let the sunlight in. If the
wind threatens to carry everything away, open only the door
opposite the direction of the wind.
2. Clean the wet spot out of the stalls every day.
Letting the wet spot build up, then stripping the stall every
couple of days or once a week increases the ammonia at nose
level for the horse, even though you may not smell it. True
deep-letter bedding where you add bedding each day, and only
clean out in the spring can work well if you use enough bedding
and clean properly.
3. Check your bedding. Straw, though pretty, is not
very absorbent, consequently, long before morning, ammonia
levels are quite toxic. A base of shavings or something else
absorbent may help. Some of the newer pelleted materials may
be more absorbent, but you still need to keep them clean.
Carefully evaluate the amount of dust your bedding produces
and try to reduce it. Sometimes moistening the bedding can
help, if something like sawdust is too dry and dusty.
4. Do not skimp on bedding – especially
for barns with rubber mats in the stalls. Thin bedding may
be enough for cushioning but will not necessarily absorb the
ammonia.
5. Use stall guards or screens especially
if you have full length doors with small windows and little
cross-ventilation. Cross-ventilation is the most important
and least practiced item you can do to help your horse’s
respiratory tract. The air must circulate at the floor level
to be effective, not just 4 to 6 feet up over the top of a
door or window.
6. Use an extra Thinsulate™ or other lightweight
blanket if your horses are clipped and need additional
warmth. These blankets weigh only a few pounds and are warm
enough to keep most horses almost sweating in all but the
coldest weather. Then you can leave the doors open for the
air to circulate.
7. Use lime or soft rock phosphate to help
reduce ammonia odors, but they will not cover up heavy ammonia
odors; good management is needed for maximum benefit.
8. Use an odor-controlling product, but be
careful as just adding a stronger smell to cover up the ammonia
does not eliminate ammonia and may increase the amount of
chemical irritation in the horses lungs.
9. Avoid the use of blowers when the horses
are in the barn. Blowers raise an incredible amount of dust.
Try getting some good, old fashioned exercise and use a broom
unless the horses are out.
Horses kept outside with shelter from the wind and rain are
consistently the healthiest animals I see. My own horses live
out though all weather with a run-in shed and extra hay to
keep them warm in very cold weather. However, not everyone
has pasture with shelters, and there are some horses that
really prefer to live inside. If a horse prefers to live in,
they should have their needs honored, as horses that are not
acclimatized to living out can be quite miserable. Two of
the horses at my house spent their first winter going in at
night; now, they prefer to stay out.
Most horses will adapt to being out and will do less damage
to themselves in the long run. However, if a horse is only
turned out occasionally, it will generally run around and
act crazy. When this happens, many riders get scared and bring
the horse back inside. It is much better to tranquilize them,
turn them out regularly and give them time to acclimatize
to the new program.
Do not do a disservice to your horses by keeping them in just
because you are cold. If you turn them out and the weather
is miserable, they will tell you when they are ready to come
in. Let them in, it will be their choice, and they will be
less likely to tear the barn down. Use common sense, however,
when ice is present as it can be dangerous. Horses that go
out regularly get into less trouble and are much happier.
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